Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every Although the valleys differ, they all offer a great choice of climbing walls, with. A lot of rock climbing can be accessed by a Swiss cable car to a dam. you can haul up a pile of gear and bivvy to get. a few days climbing done. Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia. Author Chris Mellor Published Void () ISBN Review. + page guide book to rock climbing in the Albigna.

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For alpinists rising to the challenge of scaling these walls, there are four Swiss Alpine Cub SAC huts at the base of several of these impressive peaks. Usually from mid-june onwards I’d say the Cassin will be in condition, although the area received little snow this winter, so it could be opening up a bit earlier this year.

The corner was still damp as the morning sun crept down the face, and the climbing felt hard for a mere F5a. Chasing the Very Bloody Ephemeral: Dan Affsprung – on 20 May Mountaineering School Pontresina Tel.

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The second “crux”, a cpimbing traverse under a roof then a layback corner, turned out to climging straightforward and shortly we begaglia ourselves well above the second Bivouac Cassin and at the base of the Exit Chimneys. Oldest Newest Oldest Best Beta. New Topic Reply to Topic. They are for indication purposes only and can change at any time without notice. Can you get away with microspikes on snow fields and still do the good stuff? Once at the summit we considered making a dash for the nearby bivouac refuge but, almost miraculously, the storm clouds moved away to the North and evening sunshine greeted us at the summit monument which was still fizzing with static electricity.


The degrees of difficulty are defined as difficult to very difficult.

Bregaglia Climbing 2018: Sciora Badile PDF

Subscrive to the Newsletter Exclusive offers, tips and much more! Last season was good but apparently though missed it by 2 weeks. Get a train to somewhere like Chur and it’s not breaglia to hitch into the mountains. From the campsite you can also nip over the frontier to Mello if you have a car, while the Sciora hut is in striking distance for more adventurous things.

Fixed protection is limited to pitons, although now clijbing stances are equipped with double bolt belays.

It was an amazing feat of mountaineering, route-finding and endurance. Every year, avid mountain climbers from around the world meet here to find new routes through this wild mountain landscape. Mushin – on 29 May coimbing It’s hardly off the beaten track. There are many other great routes in the area if you prefer some more solitude. Sweeping sheets of clean granite spread out over chains of mountains, the Bergell valley Val Bregaglia offers alpine adventures for the the plaisir climbers and many opportunities for more wild times.

We arrived first at the foot of the Diedre Rebuffat around 6. Clouds were swirling up from the Cengalo and the upper part of the face was obscured. About 45 minutes from there to the Gianetti.


Staff Picks Classic Almscliff Soloing. Around 70 routes are described. In reply to Stephen Reid – Needle Sports: Hearts pounding and lungs pumping, legs leaden, we wondered how on earth were we going to do this in the early hours of tomorrow morning with a full rucksack then clijbing on to do a massive Alpine face? We could hear it collapse periodically during the course of the day. Although this felt strenuous and committing it was in retrospect the only way to keep to schedule given our lack of practice in climbingg Alpine climbing.

UKC Articles – The Occasional Alpinist’s Guide to the Cassin

Who are Needle Sports? In reply to Dan Why don’t you want to fly to Zurich then train to St Moritz then you can use the buses up and down the valley etc?

The best cliimbing is undoubtedly to arrange a lift from Val Masino or to get dropped off at the start. Thanks for the tips all. Any om the cassin? Was interested by the cengalo next door, though am put off by tales of the glacier being awful. There were still another six pitches and over m of climbing to go. Experiencing the Mountains Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every climber’s dream.